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LAWN GUIDES · LATE SPRING THROUGH FIRST FROST

How to Get Rid of Nutsedge in Your Lawn

Nutsedge looks like grass but isn’t. Learn how to spot it, why pulling and pre-emergent fail, and what actually works in North Texas lawns.

Nutsedge looks like grass until you look closely.

It isn’t grass. That’s why the usual lawn fixes don’t touch it.

How to identify nutsedge

Nutsedge is a sedge. It looks like grass at first glance, but Texas A&M AgriLife Extension says the details are different.

  • Stem: Triangular and pith-filled. Roll it between your fingers and you can feel the edges.
  • Leaves: In sets of three, waxy, with a V-shaped groove.
  • Missing parts: No collars, hairs, ligules or auricles like grass has.

Nutsedge plants are typically larger than kyllinga and are often scattered through the turf. Low, wet areas are common spots.

Yellow vs. purple

The two common types are yellow nutsedge and purple nutsedge. The names come from the color of their seedheads, not the leaves.

Seedheads rarely show on a lawn that’s mowed often. You’ll see them in beds and along ditches. Other clues:

  • Yellow: Leaves taper gradually to a fine point. Yellow is generally easier to control.
  • Purple: Leaf tips are blunt. It builds a bigger network of tubers and is harder to remove.

A related weed called kyllinga is smaller and handles low mowing. AgriLife says it’s usually the hardest of the group.

Annual sedge

There’s one sedge that’s a true annual. AgriLife says it grows from seed and has no tubers or rhizomes. Its seedhead is flattened, and it grows in bunches.

Because it has no tubers, it’s a different problem than yellow or purple nutsedge. Getting the ID right helps your applicator pick the right plan.

When it shows up

AgriLife says nutsedge comes up in late spring or early summer as soil warms. It grows all summer. It disappears at the first frost.

The tubers survive underground, and that’s what brings it back.

Why pulling backfires

Nutsedge grows from underground tubers, which look like small nut-like bulbs, and rhizomes.

Pull the leaves and you leave the tubers behind. They send up new shoots.

AgriLife says hand removal works only if you get every tuber and rhizome. It also warns that pulling mature purple nutsedge can wake dormant tubers and intensify the problem.

Why pre-emergent doesn’t stop it

Pre-emergents work on weed seeds. Nutsedge is a perennial that regrows from tubers.

AgriLife says pre-emergents won’t control perennial weeds. Putting one down for nutsedge won’t control it. See our pre-emergent timing guide for what it does cover.

What does work

A sedge-specific herbicide is the main tool. These are selective products that treat sedges without wiping out your grass. Follow the product label for your grass type.

What AgriLife says to expect:

  • Apply to healthy, actively growing turf.
  • Results can take up to two weeks to show.
  • Several applications are often needed for long-term control.
  • Purple nutsedge and kyllinga usually take more rounds.

Some products suppress sedges for a few weeks, then the weed regrows. That’s why repeat applications are normal.

A licensed applicator picks a product labeled for your grass type. Some are not labeled for every lawn, and St. Augustine can be more sensitive to certain ones.

Fix the wet spot

Sedges tend to move in where the soil stays wet. AgriLife says to address that as part of any treatment plan.

Its Bermudagrass calendar says over-irrigating can make nutsedge worse. Long-term control is possible only if the cause is fixed.

Things to check:

  • Sprinklers running too often or too long
  • Low spots where water sits
  • Compacted or poorly draining clay
  • Leaking heads or lines

If a lawn is severely infested, AgriLife suggests changing the watering schedule and drainage along with the herbicide program.

A simple order of operations

  1. Confirm it’s a sedge. Check the stem.
  2. Look for the water problem and start fixing it.
  3. Treat while the turf is healthy and actively growing, as the label directs.
  4. Plan on repeat applications.
  5. Keep the turf thick so sedges have less room.

Keep expectations realistic

Nutsedge is a stubborn weed. Expect a program over a season or more, not a one-time fix.

Keep kids and pets off treated areas until the product has dried, as the label directs.

Want it handled?

Telling nutsedge from grass, picking the right product, and repeating at the right time is a lot to get right. Green Ops’ weed control and fertilization program is handled by a licensed applicator who picks a product labeled for your grass type. Ask for a free quote in Mansfield, Tarrant and Johnson counties.

GOOD TO KNOW

Questions, answered.

How do I tell nutsedge from grass?

Check the stem. Nutsedge has a pith-filled triangular stem and leaves in sets of three, with a waxy look and a V-shaped groove. Grass doesn’t have a triangular stem.

Why does nutsedge come back after I pull it?

It grows from underground tubers and rhizomes. Pull it and the tubers stay behind. AgriLife says pulling mature purple nutsedge can even wake dormant tubers and make the problem worse.

Does pre-emergent stop nutsedge?

No. Nutsedge is a perennial that regrows from tubers, and pre-emergents don’t control perennial weeds. It takes a sedge-specific herbicide, often more than one application, plus fixing wet soil. Follow the label.

WE TREAT THIS

Let a licensed applicator take it from here.

Tell us about your lawn. We’ll get back to you with a free quote.

Prefer to talk? 817-382-1722

Licensed applicator, Texas Department of Agriculture · License #0984138

Try: nutgrass, brown patch, grubs, Mansfield